Water plays such a major role, there is water everywhere, overflowing, running and still. The sound of water is there and not there, depending on the effect that is desired. Gardens, birdsong, moonlight, reflection, internal views within a courtyard, external views to the landscape, it is all expertly crafted for relaxation, contemplation and pure enjoyment.
The fortified walls of the Alhambra were built in the thirteenth century, it was a mixture of red earth and red stone, thus the name, al hamra, the red. The exterior of the palace contrasts dramatically with the lavishly decorated interior and garden spaces.
The Alhambra was the seat of the Nasrid caliphs of Granada, it was much more than just a palace for the royal family, it was a palace city with a garrison for soldiers, a mosque, baths, residences and shops. Building continued over a period of years, from 1334 to 1391.
One has to remember that the Alhambra today is not what the Nasrids experienced. It has been built, fallen to ruin, housed the French army during the Peninsular wars, was damaged by gunpowder explosions etc. There has been a lot of re-building and restoration work, the gardens are Spanish, not Moorish.
Rather cheap materials were used in constructing the palace; wood and stucco, which are not meant to be long-lived. We also have to be aware that the palace would have been furnished with carpets, cushions and wall hangings, the space would have tended to be rather cluttered.
Also, since the Moors sat on the floor, the windows and miradors are set very low; to get the correct perspective, we would have to squat down to experience their view.
Lastly, the palace was designed for the inhabitants, it is of a human scale. It was not designed to impress the subjects, there was not much space for grand ceremonies, it is an intimate space. A lot of the focus is on the outdoors, moonlight and diffused sunlight feature prominently.
Today’s Notes
It was a fairly incredible day for us. We had an early time to be at the Nasrid Palace, so we got up early, skipped tea and walked to the Gate of Justice, a short-cut entry point. There were few people around, it was cool and the sun was just rising.
We lined up and were let into the Nasrid palace with the rest of the 8:30 ticket holders. It is impossible to describe what we experienced. The intricacy and exquisite detail is beyond comprehension. Something this ornate could be distasteful, but it is so beautiful, it defies description.
We spent five hours visiting the entire complex. While there, we met some interesting Australians who are well travelled. We also stopped at the Parador for a café con leche, we sat outside on the terrace with a view to the Generalife Gardens. The Parador is situated where the mosque used to be, it was demolished by the Christians and they built a convent in its place. The convent has been transformed into a Parador. The Spanish have taken ownership of interesting historical buildings, usually with stupendous views, and turned them into state hotels with rates within reach.
After we were finished visiting the Alhambra, we had lunch and watched people in a busy square in the Alhambra complex. People seem to spend a lot of time looking in and not out. This makes for a certain amount of drama which is pretty meaningless in the grand scheme of things.
After we left the Alhambra we spent about three hours walking up and down the steep hills and stairs in the Albaicin, which is the old Moorish area of Granada. It is like a labyrinth of tiny streets with white houses, restaurants, cafes and shops.
On the way back to our apartment we stopped for a vino tino, or red wine. Spain is all about tapas, small snack plates, but I wouldn’t consider them a snack, they are too big for that. In Granada, you get a free tapa with every drink. We sat outside in a non-tourist area and really enjoyed our wine and tapa, then we had to have a café con leche, otherwise we would be incapable of navigating our way home.
Tomorrow we leave Granada and move southwest, near the Costa de la Luz, on the Atlantic.
The Gate of Justice
The Alcazaba in the morning sunlight
View of the Alhambra, you would never imagine what is inside
Court of the Myrtles, the myrtle hedge would have been sunken to allow views from the sides, light and reflection are important here, also, all views are within the courtyard.
Incredible ceiling with star patterns, bright light draws the eye upward
Detail of the intricate patterning
Court of the Lions
Ceilings are three-dimensional
Clever use of light and shadow in viewing multiple arches
Openings with views to the outside are situated low in the walls
The ceilings have the feel of weightlessness, it is like they are floating overhead
There is a smooth transition between the octagonal ceiling and the rectangle of the chamber below
Court of the Lions, four channels are in the floor which carry water in four directions
Detail of a wood ceiling
Palace of Carlos V, a rather ill placed building right in the Alhambra, it is rather jarring to see this monotone, externally decorated box after coming from the Nasrid Palace
Garden space within the palace
The Moors preferred overflow fountains rather than jet fountains, this does not reflect the style of the period; although it is rather beautiful
Oh my, absolutely breath taking!
ReplyDeleteJudy