Road To the Highlands

The wind was whipping again this morning as we departed, having checked the ferry website, all was good to go. The ferry goes from Lochranza on the north end of Arran just a short way over to Kintyre. Three cars were on the ferry including ours, John was just relieved that it was a bi-directional ferry and he didn’t have to back on.

The waves were pretty good so it made for a bit of a rocky voyage which makes it all the more interesting. It is hilarious to watch everybody trying to walk as the ferry pitched about. The wind was blowing right to the ferry dock at Claonaig so the waves were crashing into the exit ramp, we had to drive through water to get off the ferry, that was rather cool.

As we had missed our morning tea we stopped in Lochgilphead for tea and finally bought a map of Scotland. Normally we rely on the GPS only but that never gives us a large map to go by.

When we got to Inveraray we decided to stop in at the Inveraray Castle, a Campbell holding. The dining room is opulent as well as the tapestry room but the most interesting room is the armoury, of course. The armoury rises to the full height of the castle and houses a magnificent display of Highland broadswords, pikes, pistols, muskets and bayonettes. The other room of interest is the old kitchen in the basement with cast iron ovens, stoves, flour mill and abundant copper pots.

We missed our short-cut road as I wasn’t paying attention in Inveraray so we continued on the main road east then turned north 3/4 of the way up Loch Lomond. The road along Loch Lomond is quite horrible, very narrow and very windy. At one point where we had to stop due to single traffic over a bridge (which is very common) a big truck came straight for us, then turned perfectly and passed by us with little room to spare, which is also the norm.

After getting past Loch Lomond things improved dramatically, with respect to both the road and the scenery. North of Bridge of Orchy this incredible landscape opens up right before you, it is Rannoch Moor in all its desolate splendour.

And it just keeps coming, at the north of Rannoch Moor stands Glen Coe, stark and forbidding on a day like today with the clouds lying low, it is beyond beautiful. The colours bleed to black and with the yellows and browns of the moor at their feet, the mountains of Glen Coe are so totally brilliant, you look at them and think, this is Scotland.

Historically, Glen Coe is known for the massacre of the MacDonalds in 1692 by government troops which included members of the Campbell clan. The clans who fought for the Jacobites at Killicrankie were to be pardoned by the King if they swore an oath of allegiance to him. MacIain, chief of the MacDonald clan travelled to Fort William to swear his oath to the Colonel of the Fort but the oath could only be administered by a civil magistrate so he had to travel on to Inveraray. The sherrif-depute of Inveraray was away so MacIain was late in swearing his oath. Other clan cheifs made little effort in swearing allegience but the MacDonalds were singled out. A regiment under command of Robert Campbell arrived in Glen Coe with governement orders to put to death any MacDonald under the age of 70. The MacDonalds hosted the government troops not knowing what was to befall them.

During the attack, 38 MacDonalds were killed, the majority having escaped into the mountains. At the time of the massacre, hospitality was practically sacred among the Highlanders; therefore, the attack on the MacDondalds while hosting the government troops stirred public opinion against the attackers.

Tonight we are in Spean Bridge in a guest house that is run by two incredibly friendly Scots. Our dinner out was Jacobean chicken, which is chicken stuffed with haggis, it was really good.

Tomorrow we are off to the Isle of Skye.

Ferry Crossing

Inveraray

Inveraray Castle

Rannoch Moor

Glen Coe