Glasgow has a really interesting history which is told in her architecture and in her streets. In the mid 17th century, there was nothing really special about Glasgow other than being an important Roman Catholic Ecclesiastical centre. An enormous transformation was about to take place which would change the city.
The reformation of 1560 shifted the power base of Glasgow from religious to secular and from Bishops to the merchant elite. In the early to mid 18th century the Tobacco Lords of Glasgow symbolized the success of Glasgow and the power was theirs.
We started the day with an audio-walk hosted by Neil Oliver. The walk took us from what was the old medieval town to the new town and the villas of the merchant class. In the old town, the merchants funded the building of the Tolbooth which sits on High Street. When it was built, the Tolbooth would have towered over the rest of Glasgow’s buildings which would have stood at only three stories. The Tolbooth was being restored and was completely surrounded by scaffolding, so no pic.
In the early 18th century, legally, the Scots could not trade with a British colony as that was solely controlled by the English. But the enterprising Scots started to become active in more dodgy activities which included smuggling. Glasgow was much closer to the colonies in North American than the port cities further south and the Glasgow merchants exploited that to great effect. They could complete two full crossings to and from North America to one crossing for the English merchants.
The wealth of the merchant class absolutely exploded to obscene levels when they gained control of the tobacco trade. It was a ruthless and expensive business which bankrupted many, but those who navigated the trade did extremely well. Almost half of the entire Clyde tobacco trade was controlled by three Glasgow merchants: Cunninghame, Speirs and Glassford. It is estimated that in comparison with today, the Tobacco Lords would have been earning hundreds of millions of pounds. They were the wealthiest non-aristocratic and non land-owning class.
The Tobacco Lords built villas that were very different from the usual terraced housing of Europe. They built gated streets of stand alone houses away from the medieval town. Normally, one would build west of the town to get away from the prevailing winds which carried the stench of the town; however, these 2nd rank merchant houses were built east of the city, but that was about to change.
The merchant class started to move west and in the late 1700's they built a first new town which had wider streets and the streets were built on a grid. Glasgow is famous for having a grid system of streets. Also, the houses were arcaded rather than terraced. They had shops at ground level and flats above. The streets were also a mixed development which included banks, warehouses and shops as well as homes.
The streets are also blocked at the ends and the cross streets are also blocked at their ends. This makes it really interesting to walk around Merchant City where streets end with buildings, jog and continue.
In 1780, Cunninghame built the grandest house in the city. He spent 10,000 pounds on the house which was a fortune at the time. The house was built by itself and was set to frame the new thoroughfare of Ingram Street. The home was sold to people in the textile trade and then was bought by the Royal Bank of Scotland, then the merchants gave it a huge make over in 1820 and it became the Royal Exchange, it is now the Gallery of Modern Art.
The audio-walk took us through the core of old Glasgow, then west to the first new town, on to the Cunninghame mansion and then to the kirkyard where the merchants are buried. Interestingly, the grave markers of the merchant elite are very restrained, as there were strict requirements that the memorials were not to be ostentatious. The markers are very basic, giving the name, date of death and read 'Merchant of Glasgow,' and that is it.
The reformation of 1560 shifted the power base of Glasgow from religious to secular and from Bishops to the merchant elite. In the early to mid 18th century the Tobacco Lords of Glasgow symbolized the success of Glasgow and the power was theirs.
We started the day with an audio-walk hosted by Neil Oliver. The walk took us from what was the old medieval town to the new town and the villas of the merchant class. In the old town, the merchants funded the building of the Tolbooth which sits on High Street. When it was built, the Tolbooth would have towered over the rest of Glasgow’s buildings which would have stood at only three stories. The Tolbooth was being restored and was completely surrounded by scaffolding, so no pic.
In the early 18th century, legally, the Scots could not trade with a British colony as that was solely controlled by the English. But the enterprising Scots started to become active in more dodgy activities which included smuggling. Glasgow was much closer to the colonies in North American than the port cities further south and the Glasgow merchants exploited that to great effect. They could complete two full crossings to and from North America to one crossing for the English merchants.
The wealth of the merchant class absolutely exploded to obscene levels when they gained control of the tobacco trade. It was a ruthless and expensive business which bankrupted many, but those who navigated the trade did extremely well. Almost half of the entire Clyde tobacco trade was controlled by three Glasgow merchants: Cunninghame, Speirs and Glassford. It is estimated that in comparison with today, the Tobacco Lords would have been earning hundreds of millions of pounds. They were the wealthiest non-aristocratic and non land-owning class.
The Tobacco Lords built villas that were very different from the usual terraced housing of Europe. They built gated streets of stand alone houses away from the medieval town. Normally, one would build west of the town to get away from the prevailing winds which carried the stench of the town; however, these 2nd rank merchant houses were built east of the city, but that was about to change.
The merchant class started to move west and in the late 1700's they built a first new town which had wider streets and the streets were built on a grid. Glasgow is famous for having a grid system of streets. Also, the houses were arcaded rather than terraced. They had shops at ground level and flats above. The streets were also a mixed development which included banks, warehouses and shops as well as homes.
The streets are also blocked at the ends and the cross streets are also blocked at their ends. This makes it really interesting to walk around Merchant City where streets end with buildings, jog and continue.
In 1780, Cunninghame built the grandest house in the city. He spent 10,000 pounds on the house which was a fortune at the time. The house was built by itself and was set to frame the new thoroughfare of Ingram Street. The home was sold to people in the textile trade and then was bought by the Royal Bank of Scotland, then the merchants gave it a huge make over in 1820 and it became the Royal Exchange, it is now the Gallery of Modern Art.
The audio-walk took us through the core of old Glasgow, then west to the first new town, on to the Cunninghame mansion and then to the kirkyard where the merchants are buried. Interestingly, the grave markers of the merchant elite are very restrained, as there were strict requirements that the memorials were not to be ostentatious. The markers are very basic, giving the name, date of death and read 'Merchant of Glasgow,' and that is it.
Merchant's House: five window, decorative urns, door scalloped out in stone
Virginia Mansions
Tobacco Lord's House
The Cunninghame Mansion
Kirkyard where the merchant elite are buried
Our audio-walk took us close to Glasgow Green, a very old green space in Glasgow which has many statues and a very ornate fountain. Also in Glasgow Green is the People’s Palace and Winter Garden. The People’s Palace is a social history museum of Glasgow and the Winter Garden is a wonderful conservatory with tropical plants and a café. We had lunch in the café, it was really sunny so it made it very warm in there. It was a great lunch spot.
The shape of the conservatory is said to be based on the upturned hull of Lord Nelson’s ship Victory. Nelson commanded the British fleet during the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805 where the British attacked the French and Spanish fleet off Cape Trafalgar on the Spanish coast.
During navel battles in those days, the ships manoeuvred alongside the enemy and fired from broadside batteries of guns at a range of only a few yards. The firing at close range was devastating for the crews as cannon balls tore through the ship killing crew or sending wood splinters flying. Masts and rigging falling on deck, fire breaking out and munition explosions were also common. Smaller weapons were used to shoot officers and crew on the deck. The ultimate aim was to lock ships together and board the enemy ship and fight hand to hand.
Nelson was hit by a musket shot, knocking him to the deck and breaking his back. He was carried below deck and died after learning of the victory of the British fleet. The preserved HMS Victory lies in Portsmouth harbour.
People's Palace and Winter Garden
Our view from the cafe in the Winter Garden
Doulton Fountain
Templeton’s carpet factory
The Drying Green, used to dry clothes, a wash-house was built on the Green
Monument to Lord Nelson
St. Andrews in the Square was part of our audio-walk, it was also the venue for a concert this afternoon by the Orchestra of Scottish Opera. The concert was absolutely fantastic, the acoustics in the building were simply amazing and the audience sits very close to the musicians. The last piece was Beethoven’s Symphony No. 5 in C minor, Op. 67 and it basically blew us away. The Glasgow audiences are terrific, they are so appreciative of great music, the applause never stops and they stamp their feet on the floor as well. The people sitting beside me go to all the concerts and the operas, I told them they were spoiled. They also gave us a bar recommendation which we will try to check out tomorrow if we have time. Tonight we had dinner in the Butterfly and Pig, it is a bar with a restaurant.
Time is almost out on our super vacation here and we are not wanting to leave at all. We really need a few more weeks or months or years. Tomorrow we are off to the West End, it is our last day before we fly out on Tuesday, arrrrrrgh.
St. Andrews in the Square, built by the Tobacco Lords
Glasgow War Memorial in foreground
George Square
you were so near to the places near where my ancestors lived! your trip sounds just awesome and I can't believe it is almost over. You will have to come home, and plan another. Loving the blog and the beautiful pictures. Tracy
ReplyDeleteWow! What a glorious trip... And am I ever behind!
ReplyDeleteBut our candidate isn't! It's neck-and-neck locally and the NDP is now in second place nationally. Soft support, but second place!!!
From bogs and cliffs to people and urbanization -thank you so much for sharing the cultural and historical flavour of Scotland with us - you'll go back again I bet. You guys are outstanding travelers!
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